16 August 2016
I had a cool tailwind for my final 39 miles from Jonesboro to Lubec, Maine.
The final map: all 5042 miles of it…
15 August 2016
Norman gave me a ride from Great Cranberry Island back to Northeast Harbor. I then rode farther East to Jonesboro, ME, where my sister Pat has met me for the night. 69 miles.
14 August 2016
I had an amazing day exploring Acadia National Park, including cycling up Cadillac Mountain. Spent the night on Great Cranberry Island with my niece, Kelly, and her family, as well as surprise guest, Jean Galvin, my sister-in-law. 40 miles.
13 August 2016
i enjoyed a cool, wet ride from East Orland onto Mt. Desert Island to Bar Harbor, where I visited college friends, Michael and Kristine Lynes. 32 miles.
12 August 2016
A sweltering ride again today through the Camden/Belfast hills! Brief light rain mid-day. From Washington to East Orland, ME. 53 miles.
11 August 2016
Cool ferry ride in fog back to the mainland, followed by a 90+ degree ride through Brunswick and along Merrymeeting Bay to Washington, ME, to visit my old botany professor, Bruce Fowles. 72 miles.
10 August 2016
Today was a weather- induced rest day due to ominous weather radar, which turned out to be right after an entire morning of rain. Zero miles, nice, quiet day on the island enjoying the hospitality of the Maine/White family.
9 August 2016
A short day through Portland, ME, to Yarmouth, where I met another college friend (and Michael’s sister) Carol White and her husband, Herb, who have taken me by boat to their house on Chebeague Island. 20 miles on the bike.
8 August 2016
I crossed into my final state today, Maine! I rode from Exeter to Cape Elizabeth to see my cousin, Mary, and her husband, Bob Dall. 76 miles.
7 August 2016
I visited my Aunt Joan and Uncle Ken Veroneau in Plaistow, NH, then peddled to Exeter, NH, to see an old college friend, Byrd Allen, and his wife, Lynda. 22 miles.
6 August 2016
i visited my Uncle George Lagasse in North Chelmsford, along with all of his kids (Elaine, Anne, Bill, Kathy), then peddled on to Haverhill to see Aunt Marie and Uncle Jim Lagasse. They took me to a Lagasse party at Mikey’s in Newburyport to watch the fireworks over the harbor. 53 miles.
4 and 5 August 2016
Rest days. Zero miles.
3 August 2016
Another great rail-trail ride for half the day up the Blackstone River, accompanied by Professor White who was full of interesting knowledge about the old mills along the river and the origins of the American industrial revolution. We crossed into Massachusetts and Mike headed back home to Providence while I peddled on to my sister Pat’s house in Concord, MA. 55 miles.
2 August 2016
I rode in pouring rain most of the morning, which felt great after the hot, humid days of the past couple weeks. I covered more Connecticut hills from Eastford to the border into Rhode Island, then met my old high school friend, Michael White, who teaches at Brown University, and who rode to Providence with me on a beautiful rail-trail. 60 miles.
1 August 2016
Today with Veronica’s help I put my front wheel in the Atlantic Ocean in New Haven! Then she rode with me for part of the day, which was a treat for dad. I rode through Middletown to Eastford, CT, to visit Michael Lynes, an old college friend who teaches at U. Conn. 71 miles.
31 July 2016
Rest day with Veronica is New Haven. Zero miles.
30 July 16
Connecticut has lots of steep hills! I made it to New Haven and am relaxing with daughter, Veronica. 45 miles.
29 July 16
Heat, humidity and hills did me in today. I crossed from the Hudson River at Germantown, NY up and over the Appalachians (including crossing the Appalachian Trail) into Connecticut, and called it a day in New Milford, CT. 58 miles. I’ll get to New Haven by noon tomorrow.
28 July 16
i rode from north of Schenectady through Albany and south along the Hudson River to Germantown. 93 miles. I’m within striking distance of New Haven CT to visit Veronica!
27 July 16
Great ride today partly along the Erie Canal and partly along the state’s designated “bike route #5”, from Utica to Scotia, right next to Schenectady, NY. 76 miles.
26 July 16
After my first flat tire of the trip yesterday ( almost exactly at mile 4000!), I realized I had worn out the rear tire. Stopped at a great little bike shop in Manlius this morning for a new one. On to the outskirts of Utica along the Erie Canal. 71 miles.
25 July 16
i rode in rain the whole day, including a few spots where I needed to get off my steel bike due to lightening. From Palmyra to Syracuse, NY. 66 miles.
24 July 16
Back in the States, I rode all day along the tow path for the Erie Canal, from Lockport to Palmyra, NY. 80 miles.
23 July 16
Long, hot day from Dunnville, Ontario, through Niagara Falls and back into the States at Lockport, NY. 97 miles.
22 July 16
Hot (90+), muggy day along Lake Erie from Port Burwell to Port Dunnville, Ontario. 87 miles.
21 July 16
No forward progress. A side trip inland to Ingersoll, where my mom’s grandparents (the Everetts) lived and where her mom (my grandmother) was born. Hot day, hard headwind all the way back. 70 miles.
20 July 16
Through farmland along the north shore of Lake Erie, from Morpeth to Port Burwell. 75 miles.
19 July 16
From Yale, MI, to the ferry across the St. Clair River (from Marine City, MI, to Sombra, Ontario), through Canadian customs, then a long peddle through flat farmland to Morpeth on Lake Erie. 102 miles.
18 July 16
A long, hot day, but good progress toward my border-crossing. From Saginaw to Yale, with a tail wind across flat farmland. 96 miles.
17 July 16
Clare to Saginaw via Midland, where I got a new chain for the bike. Staying with Mickey Waddell, Dave W.’s mom, tonight! 52 miles.
16 July 16
42 degrees this morning – no wonder I was cold in my light-weight sleeping bag. Made progress east across this big state, from Luther to Clare, MI, over rolling hills. 68 miles.
15 July 16
Two months on the road as of today! A few miles south of Manistee I turned east once again and headed across the lower peninsula of Michigan, as far as Luther today. My trajectory is SE through Saginaw and into Ontario. 63 miles.
14 July 16
Into strong (18 mph) headwinds again coming off Lake Michigan, but a nice day from Traverse City to Manistee. 77 miles.
13 July 16
Rest day. Stayed with friends, John and Karen, in Traverse City, got a great tour of the dunes along Lake Michigan and other sights. Got my bike deraileurs fixed at a local bike shop. Zero miles.
12 July 16
Petoskey to Traverse City, MI, on a 90-degree, thunderstorming day, with rolling hills. I’m beat. 86 miles.
11 July 16
Headed down the Lake Michigan shore from Mackinaw City to Petoskey, MI, along (through?) the “Tunnel of Trees” along route M-119. 56 miles.
|10 July 16
Crossed the Straits of Mackinaw via Mackinac Island to the lower peninsular of Michigan. 55 miles, including the 8 around the island.
|9 July 16
Dried out. Nice ride along Lake Michigan from Manistique to Brevort, MI. 70 miles.
|8 July 16
Really wet day. Munising on Lake Superior south across the U.P. to Manistique on Lake Michigan. Huge thunderstorms all day (the radar image below was one of three big fronts that came through during my ride). 42 miles.
|7 July 16
Spent more time at the ski museum, then headed through Marquette and along the shore of Lake Superior to Munising, MI. Rode in afternoon rain for the first time since Idaho. 56 miles.
|6 July 16
Short day from Sagola to Ishpeming, MI. Spent the afternoon in the U.S. Ski Hall of Fame and Museum, one of the key stops on my cross-country trip. 50 miles.
|5 July 16
Watched the fireworks last night from Iron River’s city park/campsite, then had a short day to Sagola, MI. Hot and humid, I just ran out of gas. 37 miles.
|4 July 16
On the holiday, rode from Harrison, WI, northeast across the state line into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula to Iron River, MI. 89 miles.
|3 July 16
Rest day on Seven Island Lake in Harrison, WI, enjoying the hospitality of my friends, Diane and Steve, from Wausau. Zero miles.
|2 July 16
My first 100+ mile day: 109 today, with variable winds! From Bruce to Harrison, WI, across the rolling north country. Visiting friends Steve and Diane at their cabin.
| 1 July 16
Balsam Lake to Bruce, Wisconsin. 71 miles
|30 June 16|
|29 June 16
Rest day at Binkie and Greg’s place in Hugo MN. Zero miles.
|28 June 16
Milaca to Hugo MN to visit a college friend. 80 miles.
|27 June 16
Sauk Center across the Mississippi to Milaca, MN. Much of the way on the Lake Wobegone Trail. 87 miles.
|26 June 16
Fergus Falls to Sauk Center, MN, the entire day on a rails-to-trails bike trail, and with a steady tail-wind. Stopped in Alexandria to see Big Ole and the Rune Stone. 74 miles.
|25 June 16
Crossed the Red River from Fargo into Minnesota, then headed SE to Fergus Falls, MN, into mixed winds. A workout. 85 miles.
A rest day in Fargo. Zero miles (I did ride across the Red River to visit the Viking ship museum, and to the great bike shop in the old train station, but only a handful of miles sans panniers). Found a barber shop, too, and came out looking more civilized.
|23 June 16
Enderlin to the big city, Fargo ND. 59 miles.
|22 June 16
Gackle to Enderlin, ND, blown along what the locals claim is the straightest highway in the U.S. by a wonderful tail-wind. 83 miles.
|21 June 16
Head-wind slowed me down today plus a late start after yakking with the locals at the diner. Napoleon to Gackle, ND. 40 miles.
|20 June 16
I had another nice tail-wind today, not as strong as yesterday but enough to push me 74 miles from Bismarck to Napoleon, ND.
|19 June 16
A good Father’s Day ride: strong tail-wind the whole day, so I made it from Richardton to Bismarck, on the Missouri River near where Lewis and Clark spent their first winter at the Mandan Village. 85 miles. Time for a beer.
|18 June 16
Challenging day from Medora to Richardton ND into strong head-winds. 62 miles.
|17 June 16
Toured Theodore Roosevelt National Park. A “rest” day. 39 hilly miles.
|16 June 16
From Glendive MT across the state line into Medora, North Dakota! The Badlands. 65 miles.
|15 June 16
Circle to Glendive MT on a cold, threatening day. Nice tail-wind didn’t hold as I came into Glendive; not hospitable to do another 30 until the wind changes. Tammy Himes, you were right about your hometown – on to Medora ND tomorrow! 51 miles.
|14 June 16
Another hard day into head-winds, over a 54 mile road due south from Wolf Point to Circle MT with zero services. Crossed the mighty Missouri River. I’m detouring south in order to avoid the Bakken oil mess if I kept straight east on U.S. 2 into North Dakota: too many industrial-sized trucks squeezing onto a small road with little shoulder for cyclists to be safe.
|13 June 16
After a lovely night sleeping in the tiny Lutheran Church in Hinsdale MT, the woman who invited us (two other cyclists and me) to do so cooked breakfast for us! These Road Angels are all around. Had a hard ride today with side- and head-winds, no helping tail-winds. I’m beat as I camp in Wolf Point on the Fort Peck Indian Reservation. 85 miles.
|12 June 16
Harlem to Hinsdale, MT, continuing across the plains of NE Montana along the Milk River on U.S. 2. Rode a nice tail-wind for 91 miles. Was invited to stay in the basement of the Lutheran Church to get away from the bugs.
|11 June 16
Big thunderstorms overnight. Hingham to Harlem MT via Havre, where I stopped at a fascinating “buffalo jump” where Indians for thousands of years lured buffalo over the cliffs. The ground contains layers with millions of buffalo bones. Long day, now in Fort Belknap Indian Rez. You can see by the map that my days are stretching out, both in mileage and traveling in long, straight lines (no pesky mountains to go around). 80 miles.
|10 June 16
Shelby to Hingham (population 103) across the wide-open plains, into a steady headwind all day. A work-out. Camping in the town park, with farmers’ BBQ tonight – free beer and burgers! 71 miles.
|9 June 16
I got blown by a 20+ mph tail-wind all day, from East Glacier through Browning (nice Museum of the Plains Indians) and Cut Bank to Shelby, MT. 75 miles.
|8 June 16
Around the south side of Glacier N.P. and over my final western mountain pass — Marias Pass, 5216 ft. — and down into East Glacier on the Blackfeet Indian Rez. 60 miles.
|7 June 16
A true rest day on the shores of Lake McDonald in Glacier N.P.after one of the best, most-scenic (not to mention strenuous) bicycling days of my life yesterday. Zero miles.
|6 June 16
Today Mary Sue, Nick and I rode to Logan Pass on Going to the Sun Road! Yahoo! Weather gorgeous, views unbelievable in every direction all day. Because the full road is not yet open due to remaining snow on the east side, we returned down the 3500 vertical feet we climbed back to Lake McDonald. Wonderful day, we’re all beat. 42 miles.
|5 June 16
On a “rest” day from bicycling, we did a strenuous 12-mile hike to Huckleberry Lookout with spectacular views.
|4 June 16
Rode a short day with Nick from Whitefish to Apgar, within the west entrance of Glacier National Park. Impressive skyline, these Rockies! 34 miles.
|3 June 16
Another rest day with Mary Sue and Nick. We went back to the Whitefish Bike Retreat and rode mountain bikes all day through outstanding country and well-maintained trails.
|2 June 16
Rest day in Whitefish with Mary Sue and Nick. We hiked up to Avalanche Lake on the west side of Glacier National Park, in the rain.
|1 June 16
A rest day (10 miles), the first of many as Mary Sue and Nick arrive tomorrow. Lovely, quiet stop at the Whitefish Bike Retreat overnight, then a short hop into downtown Whitefish where I found the Great Northern Brewing Company’s brew-pub, with outstanding IPAs (Going to the Sun and Bluebird Day Double). Life is good. 10 miles.
|31 May 16
From Eureka, MT, south to Whitefish. Camping at the Whitefish Bike Retreat, a neat spot out in the forest that caters to mountain bikers. 57 miles.
|30 May 16
Up along Koocanusa Lake to Eureka MT, within five miles of the Canadian border and with the whole range of Rockies from Banff to Glacier in front of me! 45 miles.
|29 May 16
Through Libby MT, by the massive Libby Dam, and camping along Koocanusa Lake above the dam. 66 miles.
|28 May 16
Sandpoint, Idaho, to Bull Lake in NW Montana. Gorgeous country! 66 miles.
|27 May 16
Short “rest” day today (40 miles) from Newport to Sandpoint, Idaho. New chain for the bike at Greasy Fingers Bike Shop. Afternoon off to rest the body.
|26 May 16
A long haul from Colville up 2,000 ft., then 50+ miles into a strong headwind, ending at a beautiful county park on the Pend Oreille River near Newport, WA, right on the Idaho border. 94 miles!
|25 May 16
Another butt-kicking climb today from Republic up and over Sherman Pass (5577 ft.), which is higher than Washington Pass in the North Cascades! A long downhill brought me to Kettle Falls across the Columbia River/Lake Roosevelt, then a pleasant final 14 miles into Colville, WA. 64 miles.
|24 May 16
Up through Tonasket, WA, then really up as I climbed over Wauconda Pass (4300 ft.), another serious workout, then a long downhill into Republic, WA. Beautiful country in this neglected corner of our state. 57 miles.
| 23 May 16
Out of the Methow, up and over Loop Loop Pass (4,000 ft.), down into the Okanogan Valley, camping (with friends Jack and Jeanie Spurlock, who met me there!) in Riverside, WA along the Okanogan River. 74 miles.
|22 May 16
Rest day in the Methow Valley. Lucy and Bernie are angels who swooped me up yesterday to sleep under a roof and dry out after a very wet pervious 24 hours. What a lovely spot in Carlton WA right on the Methow River. Met former colleague Steve Oien and his wife, Hanne, and stayed with them on Sunday night in Mazama. Angels all around me!
|21 May 16
The first big hurdle: over Rainy and Washington passes on the North Cascades Highway, into the Methow Vally. Lisa Niehaus stopped by the side of the road for a quick and totally unexpected visit! Saw Kim and Steve at North Cascades Basecamp. Stayed with houseboat neighbor Lucy Reid’s friend Bernie in Carlton down valley. 51 hard-earned miles.
20 May 16
Beautiful ride up the Skagit Vally through Concrete, Marblemount and Newhalem to camp at Diablo Lake just below Ross Dam. 57 miles.
|19 May 16
Up Whidbey Island, across Deception Pass and the Skagit Flats to Hamilton, WA (Rasar State Park) on the Skagit River upstream of Sedro-Wooley. 70 miles. Cold and sprinkling rain off and on through the day. Wonderful breakfast at Baz’ house on Whidbey (with Mary Sue, too!); lunch at the Farmhouse restaurant on Highway 20
|18 May 16
Rest day on Whidbey Island. Staying with old friend, Baz Stevens, in Freeland, WA. Zero miles.
|17 May 16
Day 3: Dungeness Spit to Whidbey Island, via Port Townsend. More great off-road sections of the Olympic Discovery Trail. Lunch with Cindi Alberti. Ferry to Keystone, side trip to Freeland,WA. 70 miles (excluding ferry!).
|16 May 16
Day 2: Crescent Beach to Dungeness Spit in Sequim, WA, via Port Angeles. Spectacular breakfast at the Blackberry Cafe (“you kill it, we’ll grill it”) in Joyce. 39 miles. Wonderful sections on the Olympic Discovery (bike) Trail.
| 15 May 16
Day 1: Neah Bay to Crescent Beach, Joyce WA. 62 miles along the Strait of Juan De Fuca.